Crates 48"x36"x30" or 36" x 27" x 24". You'll love the ease, convenience and affordable price of these sturdy drop-pin crates. They set up and knock down in seconds, with no tools required. Safe and secure slide bolt latches mean security for your pet. 

Stainless Steel Bowls:  You will also need 2 stainless steel bowls (1 for food and 1 for water).

* Ceramic Heavy Bowls:  These are ideal for the crate, as the puppy won’t be able to tip them over, we found some at Tractor Supply a few years ago and at some stores you can order them with the dog's name on it.
 
Doggie Bed:  For the first month, we suggest that you use a towel in the crate and you can get a doggie bed for use in another room for the puppy to lie on when not in the crate.  The puppies have been laying on "doggie beds."

Tips:  When the puppy comes home with you, get the puppy acquainted with the crate, place the water bowl, toys and towel in the crate…this way the puppy will go there for water and toys.  Also, feed the puppy in the crate, the first few days, this will let the puppy know that this is his/her domain place.  Do not leave cloth toys in the crate when the puppy is not supervised as the puppy may swallow some of the cloth or stuffing.  At least twice a day, put the puppy in the crate for a period of 20 to 30 minutes, after exercise and when needs to nap, and close the door.  This will begin the crate training and when you leave to run an errand the puppy will know he/she will be in the crate.  You can extend the time in the crate over the next few days.  Be careful that the puppy doesn’t get his/her foot caught in the crate wires.  At night only leave a little water in the bowl and no food.  

The Puppy Growing:  As the puppy is growing, he/she will get a little chubby then skinny – this is the growing stages and don’t be alarmed about weight gain at this point.  The puppy will look a little chubby, then in a few days the puppy will look taller, longer and thinner.  However, you do not want to see the puppy’s ribs  protruding thru the skin for a period of time (underweight), and the food may have to be adjusted in proportion, sometimes after spaying or neutering.  Sometimes our new clients try to follow the feeding portion guidelines on the “dog food labels” on the dog food bag.  Different dogs require different amounts of food depending on the size of the dog and exercise; therefore, you do not want a real, skinny dog or an overweight dog, if you have questions, please ask your veterinarian. 
It is best not to feed the puppy food from the table, or you may be missing your food sometime!  Always be sure that the puppy is not in the kitchen during meal times or food preparation for safety, if he/she is then have the puppy lay down in a particular area away from the stove/oven. 

Treats:  We are using small puppy treats, and only give the puppy one  small treat 3-4 times a day, be sure the puppy is in “sit” position to get the treat.  “Puppy Name, Come, SIT” then give the treat, praise the puppy “Name, Good Puppy”.  Later as your puppy gets bigger, a bigger-plain dog biscuit is fine and the puppy will have fun carrying it around and chewing on it but limit it to 1-2 a day.  Always carry treats with you when walking the puppy and training, and give the puppy a Treat for being a “Good Puppy.”  I always keep some treats in my pocket when outside with the dogs for training and exercise. 

Collar:  Get a buckle or brake-a-way, nylon collar that is ¾ inch in width and 10 – 14 inches adjustable in length. Your puppy will have a new collar on when picked up.  If you cannot find one that is ¾ inch, a 1-inch width will be fine.  Check the collar at least weekly so it isn’t too tight.  You should be able to get a finger under it.  Do not get plastic coated or leather collars until older around 6 months.  These will cause moisture build up at first on the neck of the puppy.  If the puppy is in the water a lot, you may need 2 collars so the wet one can dry when wet. 

Dog Leash:  Get at least one leash and you may want an extra one later to keep in the car.  Walk the puppy with a leash to get it use to it routinely.  The puppy should walk next to you on the left side.  Always keep the puppy within 2 feet next to you while walking around other people and do not let the puppy run ahead of you with a big distance nor let the puppy jump on others.  You will only want to increase the distance of the leash when the puppy is going to potty.  “Puppy Name, and Potty, Potty, Potty.”  While walking the puppy on a leash, always take along water and a small bag to clean up any poop especially when around other property. 

Toys:  Nylar bones are great, 4 to 6 inches in length and the puppy will chew on it and should last 6 months or longer.  When using other toys, be sure they do not have small pieces that can come off and be swallowed by the dog.  Supervision is required when a cloth toy is left with the puppy to prevent swallowing parts of it, then creating a veterinarian appointment.  Toys as tennis balls are good for retrieving, and take some old socks and knot them, only have out for the puppy to play with while you are supervising the puppy.  Bumpers are nice, soft canvas, black and white or white, approximately 6 inches in length and can be obtained at sporting stores like Gander Mountain, Dick's or Cabela’s or other stores.  If you are training the labrador for hunting, do not use toys to retrieve outside, only canvas bumpers, or wings.  This way the puppy knows what he/she is to retrieve for hunting.  When training a puppy, always make it a fun time.  Video’s are available on training a puppy at www.hawkeyemedia.net and are very helpful if you are not a professional trainer.  Do not get plastic, or cloth toys for the puppy, if you do, be sure to supervise the puppy while playing with them because the puppy will tear them up and could swallow some of the material or squeaking stuff inside.  Always put them up when you are not there with the puppy. They are really cute, but safety is first.  Also, please keep your shoes in a closet, the puppy will chew them. 

DO NOT USE RAWHIDE as the puppy and big dogs can choke on them.  Pig Ears & hoofs are not recommended unless you are with the dog when chewing them…BE CAREFUL AS SOME HAVE SALMONELLA and you don’t want to touch them and then put your fingers in your mouth or you will get sick, especially around children, we do not recommend! 

Dental Care:  Get a puppy toothbrush & toothpaste (from your vet, do not use human toothpaste) and get the puppy use to the brushing when young, not necessary every day but once or twice a week. The puppy will lose the baby teeth around 4-5 months of age, you will first notice a little blood on a toy, when the new teeth come in and the mouth will be tender.  If you are training the puppy for "force fetch" this will be done after the new teeth are in - usually around 6 months of age. 

Dental greenies > we do not recommend - be careful as their have been a lot of reports of dogs not chewing them and swallowing them whole, then causing an obstruction in the intestines requiring surgical removal.  Safety is first! 

Training the puppy to get in the car:   After the puppy is bigger, he/she should get in the car upon command.  Some of our clients have asked how to do this...throw a treat in the car or the crate, if the puppy doesn't want to do it upon command, then put the puppy in the car...take the puppy for ice cream, the next day, tell the puppy "Let's get ice cream", usually the next day the puppy is ready to get in the car as soon as you open the door.   Seat belts are recommended for dogs in the car.  Not only for the safety of the dog, but for you.  If you are sitting in the front seat and the dog is behind you in another seat, then if you have to brake very suddenly the dog could be thrown forward hitting you or the windshield, the results would be injuries that you can avoid. 

Bathing your puppy:  You can get puppy shampoo from your veterinarian or pet store, and  will only need a shampoo if there is an odor problem or if the dog gets very dirty.  Use warm water (not cold water) when bathing the puppy, as this will get rid of any odor with shampoo. 

Heartworm Medication & Flea/Tick Control:  When you puppy leaves our home in the spring thru fall season, we will give the puppy its first Heart Guard prevention.  You will need to get your puppy on a Heartworm medication like Heart Guard Plus or Sentinel.  Use Frontline or another topical application for fleas/ticks - we do not recommend Bio Spot as some of our dogs are allergic to it, so best to get from your veterinarian.  Normally the dog shouldn’t need flea shampoo, just a mild shampoo.  If you need a flea shampoo – get some at the veterinarian’s office and be sure to use gloves and only use if you see fleas on the dog, actually it would be best for your vet's office to do it!  Ask your vet how often you should do this, we do not recommend monthly as the topical application should work well.  We do not recommend giving topical applications for fleas or ticks when children are around, as this may be absorbed thru the skin of children when touching the area and it is NOT HEALTHY!  If you give a topical flea application, keep the puppy away from children until it is absorbed and dry, usually before bedtime.  Ask your veterinarian about what to observe for side effects.  Use warm water (not cold water) when bathing the puppy, as this will get rid of any odor with shampoo.  Do not get water or soap in the ears, if the ears are dirty, use a tissue with a small amount of Ear Cleaning solution (get from your vet) and wipe out the ears > use a separate tissue for each ear to prevent contaminating the other ear. 

Trimming nails:   Check the puppy nails at least monthly, if in the house a lot, the nails may need trimming, if outside on pavement for exercise the nails most likely won't need trimming.  Your puppy has had nails trimmed at least 3 times by us before pickup, and best to do when the puppy is tired after exercise.  Ask your veterinarian about the cost for trimming (usually $10) if you are uncomfortable doing the trimming yourself.  Bear’s sire, Cuda, always had his nails polished looking like a beautiful champion! 

Bad Weather:  Always keep a towel at the door to wipe off the puppy if it gets rain or snow on it, and do not leave outside in the heat or cold weather.  Do Not over-exercise the puppy in hot weather (heat exhaustion) nor in the snow (frostbite).  While exercising the puppy, always take water with you.  During the cold winter days when the puppy is out for walking or running, you may want to get a dog vest that will help to keep the puppy warmer and dry.  If wet from rain when it is cold, always wipe the dog off with a towel to dry.  Best to leave next to the door that the dog always comes in.

Kennels for outside:  If the dog is kept outside while you are at work, we recommend 9 gauge wire for a 10 ft x 10 ft kennel with cement, a mat for the dog to lay on, a roof, a dog Igloo house - put a crate under the dog house to elevate it to prevent water from getting inside, a stainless steel water bucket clipped to the fence (so the dog will not tip the water bucket) and a secure latch.  You may want to double lock the door as some dogs learn very fast on how to open it like some of our Labradors have done, especially our Holly, Lightning and Cali.  Since you have trained the puppy in the house we highly recommend keeping the puppy in the house and only part of the day outside, this will keep your Labrador well trained and a true member of the family.  NEVER tie your dog up outside with a chain or rope!

Veterinary Check-up and Vaccines:  The puppy will be due for a Vet appointment no later than when the puppy is 9 weeks of age.  The second Vaccine is due at 9 weeks of age, the health record will have the date on it for when it is due – we will give you the health record for the puppy and you will need some Heartworm Medication monthly, except in the winter cold months; however, if you take your puppy to a warmer climate, inform your vet and likely will give it to you.  A third vaccine is due at 12 weeks of age or 1 month after the second vaccine and then at 4 months for the Rabies vaccine, your veterinarian will advise you on the vaccines required.  We do not recommend your vet to give several vaccine shots at the same time – space some time between visits to reduce a reaction to the medication which generally effects the nervous system.  Please have your vet check the Microchip upon the first visit and document the number in the file.  We do not recommend that your puppy be around other dogs until the vaccines are completed unless you know the other dogs have vaccinations current.  Also, ask your veterinarian about Emergency Supplies you may need, i.e. for bee stings, accidental skin tears to stop bleeding, etc.  When traveling, take the kit with you including a copy of the current health record.  We will give you a Health Record for your puppy, the original document is for the veterinarian and the copy is for your files.

Dog License:  Many cities and counties require a dog license annually, please keep the tag on the collar of your dog, as well as the phone number to contact in case the dog gets lost. 

When the Puppy is ready to go his/her new home:  A health record will be given to you at the time of the puppy being picked up, and we will email a copy to you also for your files.  The puppy will have on the record from us…the first vaccine including lot number, deworming, the first Heart Guard and the Home Again Microchip Identification number (Microchip is inserted before leaving and will be verified before you leave).  The puppy will have a bath and nails trimmed before pickup and a collar.  We will answer questions that you may have also.  We will give you the 1) AKC Registration Document, 2) Home Again Microchip National Registration Documents, 3) Health Record 4) Pedigree, 5) Written Guarantee & Bill of Sale, and 6) copies of the parents certification document information, and 7) My New Puppy document that will give you information on how to care for your new puppy.  Also, we will give you some puppy food and a bottle of water.  Bring a towel so we can rub it on the Dam, so the puppy will smell it and reduce stress with the transition to his/her new home. 

Holiday & Activities:  During the holidays, with many people around, be sure to not let the puppy run all around without an adult while children play with the puppy, 20 to 30 minutes will be enough exercise time, then put the puppy in the crate to rest for an hour.   Adults need to be supervising the children when the puppy is out of the crate, as you do not want children teasing, pinching, kicking or hurting the puppy. 

Potty Training:  Always take the puppy to the door that he/she will always be going out to the yard to potty.  For pee-pee, start with every 2 hours during the day (not at night or the puppy will be training you that he/she wants to play at night).  If the puppy has had a lot of fun and exercise during playtime, the puppy may need to potty soon, and then again after eating or drinking.  Male puppies will need to pee at least twice.  It is very important to watch the puppy closely for the first week to prevent accidents.  For poop, we suggest that you potty the puppy around 6 am in the morning and the puppy will start to smell around the ground and do a few circles before poop.  In the afternoon and especially at night before bedtime…around 9pm  - 10pm, take the puppy to the door, get a soft match and wet the end that would normally be lit (DO NOT LIGHT), then insert 1/3 of it into the rectum, go outside with the puppy and the poop should happen within 1-2 minutes.  After 3-4 days, the puppy will not want this done, therefore, take the puppy outside to potty, if no poop, then insert 1/3 of the soft match, moistened.  You may want to do this if you are going to be gone for a few hours shopping to prevent an accident while you are gone, and would only be necessary during the first 3 days the puppy is in her/his new home.  The puppy will be trained for your house within a few days as long as you are watching the puppy on a strict schedule the first week.  Most of our clients inform us that the puppies sleep in their crate from 10:30pm to 5:30am or 6am, and as long as they get them on a good schedule at their home, very seldom have an accident in the house and some no accidents at all.  With our potty, exercise and crate training your puppy should be very easy to train if a strict schedule is followed during the first week, which means all the difference in the world.  We have already started the “no bite” technique on the puppies; however, you may have to use this at home to remind the puppy that “no bite” will not be tolerated.  When you visit, please be sure to ask us to demonstrate the technique to you. 

Training your puppy:  Be consistent, use repetition of commands and only one word commands…i.e. COME, HEEL, SIT, STAY, FETCH AND KENNEL.  Work on this a few minutes 2-3 times a day for about 5 minutes.  Your puppy is very smart and will learn quickly.  Practice in a hallway with doors closed for retrieving with NO interruptions, and only 1 person.  Have the puppy sit next to you, hold onto the puppy, throw a bumper or toy down the hallway, say the puppies name and/ or Fetch, release the puppy, when the puppy picks up the toy and runs back to you, stop the puppy when next to you, say SIT, GOOD Puppy (name) and then repeat.  If this puppy is going to be hunting or a hunt test dog, only use bumpers or duck/goose wings that are taped together.  Later, start with some distractions for the retrieving training.  Then start outside and then gradually increase the distance.  Remember, the puppy is suppose to come back in a straight line towards you.  Never run after the puppy, the puppy is suppose to COME to you, otherwise the puppy is BLOWING YOU OFF and is in control. Always praise the puppy “Good Puppy”. 

We highly recommend “dog obedience” classes for you and the puppy if you are not experienced in training, check with your veterinarian for their classes and their recommendations, video’s are available at www.hawkeyemedia.net that is excellent for a “happy puppy”.  If you live in the Columbus, Ohio area Bill Davis does training, Telephone # 740-595-3449, www.davisretrievers.com or contact us for his email address and trains for obedience, hunt test, and hunting as well as boarding.  When the puppy is 5-6 months of age, you may want to consider a trainer that has hunt test experience for training the puppy for 2-3 weeks, you will definitely have a well-trained Labrador, and remember - consistency in commands and obedience is the key!  When taking your puppy for a few days of training, always take your own dog food that the puppy is use to.  If you plan on making a trip during the holiday’s and can’t take your puppy, please notify your veterinarian or friend of boarding your puppy 3-4 months ahead of time, especially around holidays.  Get a vaccine for kennel cough prevention from your vet also. 

An excellent DVD video on training is a “Training a Happy Puppy” and the link is on our website > www.hawkeyemedia.net by Bill Hillman, this will give you a day-by-day training techniques.  If you live in the Texas area, Mary Hillman trains Labrador’s for hunting, hunt test and field trials or in California > Steve & Kathy Stevens that are exceptional trainers also – contact us for the Steven's email/telephone number or www.applewoodretrievers.com .

Puppies & Water/Ice:  Be very careful during the winter for ICE around water, you do not want the puppy on ponds, and an ice rescue is not easy!  When the weather is nice in the late spring or summer, get the puppy use to the water, having another lab around retrieving in the water will make it easier.   If you live close to us our clients are most welcome to set an appointment with us and use our ponds.  We will also evaluate your Labrador and give you training tips at no charge.  We do not train other people’s dogs.  If the weather is warm, our clients are invited for the puppy’s first swim at 6 weeks of age. 

Poisonous Plants:  Check around your house, inside and outside, for poisonous plants, a partial list is on our website and ask your veterinarian.  Also, keep your puppy on a leash while in parks walking the dog; you never know what strangers may put out for animals that can make them very sick. 

Safety Tips around Children:  Teach children not to come up to the puppy from behind, this may scare the puppy.  Children need to always maintain eye contact with the puppy when playing.  Always provide supervision when the puppy and children are playing.  Teach your children to be careful around the puppy and not step on the feet, hit or kick a puppy.  For children parties, always keep your puppy in the crate or be next to the puppy at all times. 

Security:  The back yard should be fenced or have a radio fence installed for security.  If using a radio fence, wait until the puppy is at least 6 months of age before putting the collar on the puppy. 

Supplies when picking up your puppy:  When you come to pick up the puppy, you will need to bring a leash, water bowl and a towel, we will use the towel to rub over the mother so the scent will be on it for the puppy.  For our clients coming from a long distance, please bring a crate if traveling alone, water bottles, food and water bowls, leash and 2 towels if by car.  We will send some food, water and treats with you. 

For puppies going by carry-on with you via airlines – bring a small collapsible approved carry-on pet bag, it will need to be able to go under the seat. We will loan you one if you promise to return it within 7 days, as they generally cost around $100.  I will send with you treats, food, water, an Acclimation Letter and State Health Record, as well as other items you may need.  We will need to know at least 5 days in advance for airline travel.  Bring along a small hand towel and collapsible water bowl.  When traveling it is best not to feed the puppy a lot of food before leaving as the puppy may vomit due to being nervous. 

Air Cargo Travel - We will make the arrangements for this travel, will search for the most direct flight and normally use Delta Air Cargo, Northwest Airlines or Continental.  We will communicate with you for the best time and date for travel as the weather temperature is very important.  We will make the arrangements for Air Travel and communicate with you on the best direct flight we have located, date, size of aircraft, and direct flights are best.  When the final arrangements are complete we will give them to you via email and call you while at the airport to give you the Air Bill number. We will purchase the crate, include a towel for bedding, water and 2 bowls, food & treats, Acclimation Letter and State Health Record, you will be billed for the cost of the flight and crate.  The balance for the puppy must be paid before the flight.  The final bill will be for the cost of the flight and the cost of the crate that you will pay us.  The cost generally is around $220 to $300 or higher for Air Cargo, depends on the airlines and distance, the crate cost is around $38+, depending on the size of the puppy and the crate.  We insure the puppy for $1,000.  All documents will be Express mailed to you the day after the flight arrival.  The Health Record will be emailed to you ahead of time and will be included in the papers for the airline.  We will start crate training more extensively 3 days before the puppy leaves to reduce stress for the puppy.  Tracking the puppies flight is easy and once the puppy arrives, we definitely want a call from you that the puppy is ok after arrival.  You will need to arrive at the airport 30 minutes prior to the arrival to inform staff that you have a puppy arriving and would appreciate expediting the puppy as soon as it arrives.  If the puppy is arriving at the baggage area instead of the Air Cargo area, be sure you are watching for the puppy in the crate and have your ID ready.  If there is damage to the crate, immediately file a claim for reimbursement and document a complaint…as this should not happen.  We love to see pictures of the puppies as they grow and hear how well they are doing.  Feel free to send us pictures so we may add them to our “Happy Homes” and we will protect your privacy by not disclosing email or address unless we ask permission.  If you have questions, please feel free to email us at "contact us" at our website www.huntndogsestates.com.  For training tips email us or ask when you come and pick up your puppy. 

“Never spoil your labrador, as you are rocking it in your lazy-boy,

 having the pup on its back, rubbing its little belly and kissing its little face.”
Contributed by Kathy Stevens